Katy

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Posts posted by Katy


  1. After you recover the data, use a S.M.A.R.T. utility (CrystalDiskInfo for example) to see if your disk is (not) in a good shape. The main parameters you are interested in are:

    - Disk Reconnection Count
    - Bad Sector Count
    - Disk Re-identification Count

    If any of these is non-zero, your disk is dying and I wouldn't rely on it for sensitive data and/or tasks. You might want to RMA it, if applicable.


  2. I wouldn't worry either, especially when it involves HGST. These are exceptionally good drives, hence the 5 year warranty. In February 2016 I bought 2 3TB HGST drives, both of them produced also in 2014. They're running non-stop ever since, in a small business server, and are in perfectly good condition SMART wise.

    For your peace of mind, have a look at the Blackblaze's stats:

    https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/

    HGST drives have extremely low failure rates, around 1%, some models way bellow 1%. Their price and the 5 year warranty are well justified.


  3. Both the keyboard and the display are connected to the motherboard with connectors. I saw the symptoms you describe several times because the connectors have (partially) popped out of their place. First thing I would do is check them. If you're not familiar with such a task (and my guess is you're not) you need to take the laptop to someone who knows how to open it. If you're lucky, that will solve your problems.

    If you're unlucky, the motherboard might be partially busted. In that case your laptop is pretty much done. You might try to replace the motherboard but that's not a trivial task.

     

    Good luck.


  4. Definitely done. The clicking sound is the head re-trying to synchronize with the surface. That is a typical sign of mechanical failure. The head is busted from the shock of the falling. There is nothing to be done at home. If your data is really important, get it to a professional data recovery lab, they have the tools to open it safely. DO NOT OPEN IT YOURSELF, you'll lose even the slightest chance of recovering the data, the disk surface is VERY sensitive to dust.


  5. 1. Did you try browsing the drive after booting from Hiren? Do you see anything?

    2. How many partitions do/did you have on it? A lot of people create two partitions, one for Windows (called system partition) and the other for various data. If that's the case and you didn't have anything stored in "My Documents" or alike (which are located on the system partition) then you second partition should be intact. Given the short time you say the wipe took place I'd say that only the partition table and some of the system partition got wiped.

    Before trying any recovery and such make sure you create an image of the hard-drive, so you can restore it in case anything gets even more corrupted.


  6. SATA specs requires the power lines/connectors to support 1.5 A per pin. So you are safe. You're only halfway with your new drive.

    On a more general note, SATA is a standard. A HDD producer would not be allowed to sell the drive if it would function outside the standard.

    You worrying about this issue is a bit funny, no offense intended :)

    Supported capacities: all lower capacities are supported, this is just marketing b*&^&*hit. That's not the case with higher capacities, that's where you have to obey the specs.

    7mm vs 9 mm drive size: the screw holes are also standard, so when you screw the drive onto the tray it will stay in the standard position, with a gap of 2mm above or bellow. Again, it's about standards here, the 2.5" drive form factor is standardized.


  7. WD documentation says, for error 104, that after checking the cables, if the drive still reports 104 it should be returned. I think it is pretty much obvious that the drive is broken. One thing that saved me and some friends of mine a couple of times was to temporarily replace the HDD's motherboard with one from an identical drive. That way you may be able to recover your data if the problem is located in the mobo. If that is not the case, to my knowledge, you can't do anything to salvage your data. Sorry mate :(


  8. The full format that Windows performs is just enough to destroy all your data. Low level format is intended for bad sector remapping into drive's internal table. You don't need any tool for your problem, just make sure you format the drive with the full option, not the quick one. However, if you want to wipe data on your boot partition (the C: drive) then you need to reinstall your system and choose full format at setup time. To avoid OS reinstallation but still wipe your boot drive data, you need a specialized tool indeed. I would go for OS reinstall, I'm a little paranoid in these matters: you can wipe file data but you can still leave data in the Windows registry (like traces of software you used or even licenses).


  9. Formatting a drive actually means erasing all data on it. That's all. Has absolutely nothing to do with any other piece of hardware you have installed in your machine. Just make sure you don't format the slave :)

    So, to answer your question: you can safely leave the slave connected, Windows will not touch it in any harmful way. It will only create some RECYCLE BIN and SYSTERM RESTORE related folders on it.


  10. That sounds pretty much like a drive fragmentation problem. The fragmentation degree of a drive increases over time, you can't escape that as you can't escape gravity. Try defragmenting your drives at least once a month. I do it every two weeks. Don't bother using Windows' defrag utility, is garbage. I'm using Perfect Disk, but there are lots of other well performing defrag utilitites. Don't defrag any USB Pen drive or SSD drive. They don't need to be defragmented. Only HDD drives need to.


  11. Why do you want to do that? Is it because of disk space shortage on C: ? Then I would advise you to resize the drives. Shrink D: and enlarge C:. There are utilities which can do that for you, like Acronis Disk Director or Paragon Parition Manager (both of them not freeware), or Ranish Partition Manager/NTFS Resize (these being freeware, but I never used them,). If you Google for NTFS partition resizing software, you'll get a lot of hits. On tip here: when shrinking the D: drive, make sure you reduce it from its beginning, not from its end, so you make room for a bigger drive C:.

    Switching the system drive from C: to D: involves extensive registry hacking and since you yourself said you have limited computer knowledge, messing with the registry to such an extent would be disastrous.


  12. Well, Seagate are realy bad, from my experience. They have a high rate of failure. And this is a conclusion I reached over a few years of working in an IT store. Seagate HDDs are, by far, at top of the list with the drives returned for warranty while WDs are way down that list. The cherry on top of this cacke is that just yesterday a friend of mine bought a 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS (yes, exactly your model) which, when installed at home in his machine, just didn't start. Brand new piece.

    So, my strong advice is to go for a Caviar Black.


  13. The way I figure it, that noise is caused by some kind of diagnostic, but since you say at the beginning the noise was not present, the diagnostic clearly does not belogon to the drives themselves. My guess is that the diagnostic is performed by the BIOS or the OS.

    I would do the following two tests:

    1. If the drives are in RAID, take one out from RAID and see if the noise is still there.

    2. If no RAID or the noise is still present after removal from RAID, also try the drive on another machine with a different OS.