Katy

Member
  • Content Count

    71
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Katy


  1. I'd definitely go for HGST. They are worth every penny. During the years I've had WDs, Seagates, Toshibas, HGSTs, 4 of each at least. HGSTs have by far the longest life. They usually offer a 5 year warranty, which says a lot about their life span. The oldest drives I have right now are two of them in a NAS that's been on non-stop for the last 6 years. Working like a charm.

    I woudn't choose Seagate, they get very hot and are prone to short life span because of that.

    And you don't need take my word for that, see some stats:

    https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-2018/

    https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-2017/


  2. AFAIK there is no serial number involved. You could swap in a platter from an identical drive, but the factory bad sectors will be different. The controller will avoid using the old "fake" bad sectors (from the old platter) while using real bad sectors from the new platter. Also the rw head might need calibration in order to accurately land the magnetic track on the new platter.

    But the elephant in the room is the dust you let in when you opened the drive. That will damage the rw heads and the platters by causing lots of micro-scratches when caught between the heads and the platter. The drive will get bad sectors in cascade, which will render it unusable very rapidly.

    And be aware that you will also kill the secondary HDD when you open it to get the "spare" platter.


  3. Forget the scratch, you killed the drive the moment you opened it. The read/write head operates at micron distance from the platter surface, therefore any grain of dust is a huge boulder in there. When you opened the drive you did let in a lot of dust. The drives are assembled in special factory chambers with just several particles of dust per cubic meter of air.

    And yes, the HDD controller has a table of defective sectors which is populated at factory initialization time (since each platter comes out of the production line with its own particular bad sectors) so the controller knows to avoid those sectors during day to day operation.

    I'm sorry for you, but you need to buy another drive.


  4. When it comes to computer case form factor, HDDs have nothing to do with it. ATX & AT are just different sizes of cases and then some details involving the power source and motherboard. You need to match the HDD with the old motherboard, that is, the PATA standard supported by both. Usually PATA implementations are backwards compatible. But an HDD from a modern ATX computer might as well be built on SATA standard, which definitely doesn't match old PATA. Check what cables connect the HDD in your ATX machine, then check what slots do you have on the motherboard of your old AT machine. Also take a look at this page for PATA and SATA cables: https://layerpoint.com/sata-cable/

     


  5. Most probably the 1 TB HDD draws too much power. Seagate HDDs are well known for heating, which takes extra power. Does the docking station support USB 3? If yes, try connecting it to a USB 3 port. If not, there's nothing much you can do other than replacing the docking station.

    EDIT: does the docking station have external power or is it powered solely by the USB cable?


  6. After you recover the data, use a S.M.A.R.T. utility (CrystalDiskInfo for example) to see if your disk is (not) in a good shape. The main parameters you are interested in are:

    - Disk Reconnection Count
    - Bad Sector Count
    - Disk Re-identification Count

    If any of these is non-zero, your disk is dying and I wouldn't rely on it for sensitive data and/or tasks. You might want to RMA it, if applicable.


  7. I wouldn't worry either, especially when it involves HGST. These are exceptionally good drives, hence the 5 year warranty. In February 2016 I bought 2 3TB HGST drives, both of them produced also in 2014. They're running non-stop ever since, in a small business server, and are in perfectly good condition SMART wise.

    For your peace of mind, have a look at the Blackblaze's stats:

    https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/

    HGST drives have extremely low failure rates, around 1%, some models way bellow 1%. Their price and the 5 year warranty are well justified.


  8. Both the keyboard and the display are connected to the motherboard with connectors. I saw the symptoms you describe several times because the connectors have (partially) popped out of their place. First thing I would do is check them. If you're not familiar with such a task (and my guess is you're not) you need to take the laptop to someone who knows how to open it. If you're lucky, that will solve your problems.

    If you're unlucky, the motherboard might be partially busted. In that case your laptop is pretty much done. You might try to replace the motherboard but that's not a trivial task.

     

    Good luck.


  9. Definitely done. The clicking sound is the head re-trying to synchronize with the surface. That is a typical sign of mechanical failure. The head is busted from the shock of the falling. There is nothing to be done at home. If your data is really important, get it to a professional data recovery lab, they have the tools to open it safely. DO NOT OPEN IT YOURSELF, you'll lose even the slightest chance of recovering the data, the disk surface is VERY sensitive to dust.


  10. 1. Did you try browsing the drive after booting from Hiren? Do you see anything?

    2. How many partitions do/did you have on it? A lot of people create two partitions, one for Windows (called system partition) and the other for various data. If that's the case and you didn't have anything stored in "My Documents" or alike (which are located on the system partition) then you second partition should be intact. Given the short time you say the wipe took place I'd say that only the partition table and some of the system partition got wiped.

    Before trying any recovery and such make sure you create an image of the hard-drive, so you can restore it in case anything gets even more corrupted.


  11. SATA specs requires the power lines/connectors to support 1.5 A per pin. So you are safe. You're only halfway with your new drive.

    On a more general note, SATA is a standard. A HDD producer would not be allowed to sell the drive if it would function outside the standard.

    You worrying about this issue is a bit funny, no offense intended :)

    Supported capacities: all lower capacities are supported, this is just marketing b*&^&*hit. That's not the case with higher capacities, that's where you have to obey the specs.

    7mm vs 9 mm drive size: the screw holes are also standard, so when you screw the drive onto the tray it will stay in the standard position, with a gap of 2mm above or bellow. Again, it's about standards here, the 2.5" drive form factor is standardized.


  12. WD documentation says, for error 104, that after checking the cables, if the drive still reports 104 it should be returned. I think it is pretty much obvious that the drive is broken. One thing that saved me and some friends of mine a couple of times was to temporarily replace the HDD's motherboard with one from an identical drive. That way you may be able to recover your data if the problem is located in the mobo. If that is not the case, to my knowledge, you can't do anything to salvage your data. Sorry mate :(


  13. The full format that Windows performs is just enough to destroy all your data. Low level format is intended for bad sector remapping into drive's internal table. You don't need any tool for your problem, just make sure you format the drive with the full option, not the quick one. However, if you want to wipe data on your boot partition (the C: drive) then you need to reinstall your system and choose full format at setup time. To avoid OS reinstallation but still wipe your boot drive data, you need a specialized tool indeed. I would go for OS reinstall, I'm a little paranoid in these matters: you can wipe file data but you can still leave data in the Windows registry (like traces of software you used or even licenses).


  14. Formatting a drive actually means erasing all data on it. That's all. Has absolutely nothing to do with any other piece of hardware you have installed in your machine. Just make sure you don't format the slave :)

    So, to answer your question: you can safely leave the slave connected, Windows will not touch it in any harmful way. It will only create some RECYCLE BIN and SYSTERM RESTORE related folders on it.