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Katy last won the day on April 4 2017

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About Katy

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  1. If the drive is still under warranty, you can definitely RMA it. The Helium will only escape from the drive if the case gasket is defective. Unless you played football with your drive (or something similar) , that can only happen because of factory defective components. And yes, a backup is most definitely required.
  2. Katy

    2,5" 2TB HDD

    Definitely. Hitachi drives are manufactured by HGST. Well, better said, were manufactured. HGST has been finally devoured by WD, which is an absolute shame. Buy it while you still can
  3. Katy

    2,5" 2TB HDD

    I'd definitely go for HGST. They are worth every penny. During the years I've had WDs, Seagates, Toshibas, HGSTs, 4 of each at least. HGSTs have by far the longest life. They usually offer a 5 year warranty, which says a lot about their life span. The oldest drives I have right now are two of them in a NAS that's been on non-stop for the last 6 years. Working like a charm. I woudn't choose Seagate, they get very hot and are prone to short life span because of that. And you don't need take my word for that, see some stats: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-2018/ https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-2017/
  4. Katy

    HDD platter swap , is it possible?

    AFAIK there is no serial number involved. You could swap in a platter from an identical drive, but the factory bad sectors will be different. The controller will avoid using the old "fake" bad sectors (from the old platter) while using real bad sectors from the new platter. Also the rw head might need calibration in order to accurately land the magnetic track on the new platter. But the elephant in the room is the dust you let in when you opened the drive. That will damage the rw heads and the platters by causing lots of micro-scratches when caught between the heads and the platter. The drive will get bad sectors in cascade, which will render it unusable very rapidly. And be aware that you will also kill the secondary HDD when you open it to get the "spare" platter.
  5. Katy

    HDD platter swap , is it possible?

    Forget the scratch, you killed the drive the moment you opened it. The read/write head operates at micron distance from the platter surface, therefore any grain of dust is a huge boulder in there. When you opened the drive you did let in a lot of dust. The drives are assembled in special factory chambers with just several particles of dust per cubic meter of air. And yes, the HDD controller has a table of defective sectors which is populated at factory initialization time (since each platter comes out of the production line with its own particular bad sectors) so the controller knows to avoid those sectors during day to day operation. I'm sorry for you, but you need to buy another drive.
  6. Katy

    AT computer

    When it comes to computer case form factor, HDDs have nothing to do with it. ATX & AT are just different sizes of cases and then some details involving the power source and motherboard. You need to match the HDD with the old motherboard, that is, the PATA standard supported by both. Usually PATA implementations are backwards compatible. But an HDD from a modern ATX computer might as well be built on SATA standard, which definitely doesn't match old PATA. Check what cables connect the HDD in your ATX machine, then check what slots do you have on the motherboard of your old AT machine. Also take a look at this page for PATA and SATA cables: https://layerpoint.com/sata-cable/
  7. You need to defrag your HDD. Most probably is heavily fragmented. I've seen machines turning form turtle to rabbit after a defrag.
  8. Most probably the 1 TB HDD draws too much power. Seagate HDDs are well known for heating, which takes extra power. Does the docking station support USB 3? If yes, try connecting it to a USB 3 port. If not, there's nothing much you can do other than replacing the docking station. EDIT: does the docking station have external power or is it powered solely by the USB cable?
  9. If you really want something durable go for an HGST drive. I have 4 of them running non-stop for the last 4 years. But to answer your question, have a look at Blackblaze stats: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-stats-for-2017/ Now, these are NOT consumer drives but these stats pretty much reflect the overall reliability of a drive.
  10. After you recover the data, use a S.M.A.R.T. utility (CrystalDiskInfo for example) to see if your disk is (not) in a good shape. The main parameters you are interested in are: - Disk Reconnection Count - Bad Sector Count - Disk Re-identification Count If any of these is non-zero, your disk is dying and I wouldn't rely on it for sensitive data and/or tasks. You might want to RMA it, if applicable.
  11. Katy

    Age of newly purchased disks

    I wouldn't worry either, especially when it involves HGST. These are exceptionally good drives, hence the 5 year warranty. In February 2016 I bought 2 3TB HGST drives, both of them produced also in 2014. They're running non-stop ever since, in a small business server, and are in perfectly good condition SMART wise. For your peace of mind, have a look at the Blackblaze's stats: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/ HGST drives have extremely low failure rates, around 1%, some models way bellow 1%. Their price and the 5 year warranty are well justified.
  12. DO NO REMOVE IT! That's the alpha, without it the whole pack will die.
  13. Both the keyboard and the display are connected to the motherboard with connectors. I saw the symptoms you describe several times because the connectors have (partially) popped out of their place. First thing I would do is check them. If you're not familiar with such a task (and my guess is you're not) you need to take the laptop to someone who knows how to open it. If you're lucky, that will solve your problems. If you're unlucky, the motherboard might be partially busted. In that case your laptop is pretty much done. You might try to replace the motherboard but that's not a trivial task. Good luck.
  14. Definitely done. The clicking sound is the head re-trying to synchronize with the surface. That is a typical sign of mechanical failure. The head is busted from the shock of the falling. There is nothing to be done at home. If your data is really important, get it to a professional data recovery lab, they have the tools to open it safely. DO NOT OPEN IT YOURSELF, you'll lose even the slightest chance of recovering the data, the disk surface is VERY sensitive to dust.
  15. Had EXACTLY the same issue for a while with a HDD enclosure. Fixed it with a short USB cable, 20 cm. Since then I helped a few friends of mine with the same advice, worked every time. Assuming the drive itself is not faulty, of course.