Dr. M

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About Dr. M

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  1. I never mentioned, but I did end up buying the WD10EALX (Blue). Usually I get the better tiers when I buy HDD's but I was looking to save a bit this time around. I was pleasantly surprised to find that even though it is SATA3 drive on a SATA1 controller, a speed test showed it to have double the performance (on all tests) of my previous C: drive (a Hitachi T7K500 (which had just come out when I had bought it)). I had assumed the Hitachi, being a SATA2, was already saturating the SATA channel. I guess I was wrong.
  2. Quick update. Obviously I can't read. The jumper block provides SATAIII to SATAII compatibility on the WD10EALX. Still, that is only necessary if your chipset causes problems. The SATAI Sil3112 on my old motherboard seems to work just fine with the SATAIII interface without any jumpers. Nice of them to make these things backwards compatible. Edit: I do want to mention that my old Nforce2 with a SiI3112 controller (SATA 1) suffered serious slow downs under heavy drive activity (not CPU usage) with the WD10EALX. Jumpering to force SATA 2 mode fixed this problem and improved performance considerably. SATA3 may be backwards compatible on paper, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's true.
  3. Before hearing about the UPS/New Egg's packaging/shipping issues, I ordered a DVD Burner. It arrived today. As best as I can tell an elephant stepped on it at some point. (Being returned obviously.) I think I'm done with New Egg and would suggest HDD buyers beware.
  4. Thank you. My system will probably be on the drive and my current c:\ is 7200rpm. I'm more curious if even the Green drives would saturate a SATAI interface, or are there other considerations that still make 7200rpm faster.
  5. I thought it would be worth mentioning that while the issue may or may not be NewEgg's shipping department, anecdotal evidence suggests UPS could be more of the issue. AFAIK NewEgg only ships UPS, and a lot of people have said they are harder on their packages than FedEx. Still, for most drives, NewEgg's customer reviews (across different manufacturers and models of HDDs) tend to talk more about DOAs and <1 month failures, whereas Amazon reviews generally make no mention of such things. I'm curious what other people's experiences have been.
  6. I know I've been over-thinking this, but here's where I stand: My system is older, and only has SATAI 1.5gb/s connections. I was originally planning on a WD Blue WD10EALX for speed/price/performance. I then read a few comments that it was on the noisy side and started wondering about the Green drives. They appear great for noise levels, capacity and price. The WD15EARS is only $5 more than the WD10EALX for 50% more capacity (but obviously slower). The WD15EARX is another $15 providing SATAIII instead of SATAII. So my questions are: Is there any noticeable performance difference between the WD15EARS or WD15EARX (normally)? (Or in fact any other differences between the EARS and EARX besides the flavor of SATA?) Will there be any performance difference between ANY of these three drives if I'm running them at 1.5gb/s anyway? My last hard drive purchase was a SATAII, but reviews said it really never exceed SATAI data transfer rates. I really suspect that these drives would all saturate SATAI and performance would make no difference.
  7. You didn't really answer the noise question. I found several customer reviews that described the noise as loud, sounding like water percolating. I'm a bit concerned about that myself. I'm surprised you all don't do noise level tests on drives.
  8. Thanks for the replies. I see that Amazon has the same price at the moment as New Egg. I'm thinking they might be a better alternative in this instance.
  9. I always took it to mean that the Blue drives from WD are the older more reliable tech whereas the Black drives are best performance. I was thisclose to purchasing a WD10EALX today on New Egg and then I saw the customer reviews. HALF were 1-2 star ratings most reporting failures within a month. Is this just a poor sampling or does WD have problems? Would I be better off with a Black, Green or some other manufacturer? ATM I just need 1TB or better storage, but the system is on the older side so crazy fast isn't necessary. I'm currently running 2 Hitachis I'm very happy with. They've been getting a pretty heavy workout in this system for several years now. Suggestions?
  10. Dr. M

    Not dead yet?

    Sorry to bump a CRAZY old thread, but I never reported what finally happened with this. It turns out the drive was not failing, but that a PATA to SATA adapter I had been using (that came with my motherboard) was failing. So while I thought the drive was done back in October 2007, I've been running it as a second drive using plain old IDE cables ever since. 4 more years of abuse and still running stable. The t7k500 that I also mention above that I bought in '07 is still running. So far in my experience Hitachis have been the most reliable drives I've owned. I would never have suspected. Still, I'd love to know if there is another 50gb hidden somewhere on the drive that can be unlocked and re-tested.
  11. Can I retitle this thread? I should have been more general about all WD drives and SATA Compatibility. Besides, I got the model wrong. It obviously should be WD... not WS... Edit: For people that see this thread later... While the image says its for the Caviar Black drives, this is from the support page for the WD10EALX (Blue). Looks to be they still have backward compatibility for 1.5 Gb/s with the OPT1 jumper. Whatever OPT1 means.
  12. I haven't been following tech closely for a while and I'm considering picking up Western Digital's WD10EALX drive for some extra storage. My question is about this drive and SATA 6.0 gb/s in general. Would this drive be compatible on a system that only has SATA 1.5 gb/s (the old version 1)? Is it a per drive sort of compatibility thing or is 6.0gb/s in general compatible/not compatible with older versions? I do have a SATA 3.0 currently running in the system, but I recall setting a jumper block during installation.
  13. Does any have a reference for this? BIOS bus-mastering enables UDMA, which has CRC, unlike PIO. A few weeks ago I would have said that Bus Mastering has no effect on Windows because XP takes care of that by itself. It's only suppose to effect DOS based activities (like if you have an older version of Norton Ghost that boots from its own floppy). This is the first time I've seen it cause a problem, but it made XP hang during boot up until I disabled it.
  14. Interesting story (for me anyway). I own an older Hitachi 7k250 (200gb) that I've had for a few years. A couple months back I started having problems booting and noticed several Disk Errors listed in the Event Viewer. Being prudent I replaced the drive and used Norton Ghost to rescue as much data as possible. (In the process I switeched my BIOS to "Bus Mastering" to improve performance during the copy.) Not knowing that Bus Mastering can cause IDE problems when booting to windows, I thought the drive was getting flunkier and opted to reconnect the drive to the SATA channel where I had been using it. I then proceeded to test the drive completely to verify its impending death. Continued errors were enough to make me drop the drive unceremoniously in the trash. Now here's the punchline. As a stop gap I installed an old 60gb Maxtor, recently pulled from a working system, to use until I could get a second new drive for the same system. A few days later there were indications that it was failing as well. Now I don't believe in coincidence (but the Easter Bunny and Santa are real!) so I started thinking 'what do these drives have in common?' Oh yeah, that I was connecting them to an older Abit NF7-S motherboard using the included "Serillel" converter, a block that plugs into a PATA drive to let you run it on a SATA controller. I removed the Maxtor from the Serillel and plugged it directly into an IDE channel which fixed the drive completely. No really, no errors, no bad cluster, nothing. And then I started thinking... Well it's a damn good thing I don't take that room's trash out very often. I reformat the Hitachi and 10 hours of intensive read/write testing proved flawless. Who'd've of thunk that a stupid converter piece could go bad and do all that. Just goes to show you... somthing....