TwoJ

Member
  • Content Count

    543
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About TwoJ

  • Rank
    Member
  1. Sechs's post says it all pretty much, there's no real evidence to say one is better than the other, one qualification is just what an "extended period of time" is?, obviousily a 1hr cycle time i would say puts more unnecessary stress on the HD then a >12hr cycle. I think a more important factor is to ensure you have adequate cooling on those drives, heat may be killing your HD before your duty cycle does.
  2. TwoJ

    Is this data corruption? please help

    I've noticed sometimes that pulling a drive out of one system and plugging into another will kill the partition table, its rare (to most it never happens). There are also other reasons why partition tables get damaged but thats probably not too important the reason why right now. Normally there is no problem with taking a drive out of 2k and plugging it into XP, i believe the NTFS is slightly different between the 2 but it definitly should not cause a partition table to get damaged. I lost a partition when i took a backup drive and was experimenting with hotswapping with a sata drive, perhaps it was not shut down properly, i really don't know exactly, in your case i don't know why. Losing the partition table is not the same as data corruption - that is when the data stored on the HD is not the same as the original, your data is probably intact (more or less) If you have the data backuped on the external drive i would just format the drive and transfer back the data, if not there are a few programs that deal with restoring lost partitions, there are other programs that deal with data recovery but it doesn't sound that you are at that stage. There is also the possibility that this could be caused by bad sectors corrupting the partition table area, so it might be good to do a detailed format (not quick), this also might be an indication of a failing HD. So having a current backup is your best defence.
  3. Most routers today are actually Router+4or5 port switch, this allows 4-5 ethernet cable connections to computers in your house plus up to 250 wifi connections. The intergrated switch in the router allows you to create a real network for 4-5 Cat5(e) devices (ie computers) plus wifi connections, you can also add another hub or switch to the router to get even more connections if needed, most homes only need 2-3 ports. But this setup gives a "real" network, in the router you can choose (within limitations of the router) your WAN IP (ie - 192.168.1.1) plus subnet, etc. The point of getting the router is to avoid using Windows internet sharing, the ICS of windows is ok in certain cases but it has to many negatives for me. You can still use ICS on top of the router but it doesn't make too much sense incept in rare cases. The USB might be a problem, most routers are DSL or Cable connections as inputs and Ethernet as output, there might exist a USB router but i don't know of any. ethernet is the standard for newtorks not USB. The range is ok for most normal houses, depending on which router you choose a lot of companies have accessories to extend the range if necessary. they are very reliable if you get one that works for you, many people have written that they have had problems setting them up, for me it has always been fairly easy. To give you my example; I have a DSL connection which connects to a Linksys wrt54gs (router#1 - router & 4 port switch & wifi), from that router one port goes to another wrt54gs (router#2 - set as wifi access point) which is acting as a wifi access point because even though i live in an apartment the wifi signal is very weak from one side to the other, this allows me to sit outside on the balcony with the laptop and have my wifi connection to router#2, the other port on router#1 goes to a smc8508 which is a 8 port gigabit switch. There are 5 computer plugged into that switch (all ethernet), there are 2 laptops which can be either plugged into that switch, use the wifi connection of either router or be plugged into router#2. Ultimately the network can support 7 connections on the SMC8508 (this is the gigabit (1000Mbs) part of my network - 3 of the 5 computers have gigabit NICs) plus 3 connections on router#1 (these are Fast Ethernet ports (100Mbs)) plus 4 connections on router#2(again these are 100Mbs ports). The wrt54gs also supports 254 wifi connections which i have the 2 laptops, a wifi printserver, and an electronic organizer which has an integrated wifi connector. Granted this is a bit more than most normal hoseholds would need but to give you an idea of what is possible.
  4. The difference is that you have a lot more freedom with a wireless router than a Wifi card (NIC) for your desktop. The wifi NIC for your computer will have to be configured for ad-hoc connections to access your laptop and then i think you'll need ICS (Internet connection sharing) of windows. The main problem after all the configuration is that you'll always need your desktop on for your laptop to access the internet. With a router, it maintains the connection to the ISP and your desktop & laptop are independent on the LAN, ie both of them can access the internet independently. You can set network permissions also for network access to each machine. This also gives you the ability of less complication wifi configuration plus the ability of adding both wired & wireless connections to the router (usually 4-5 wired & 250 wireless for standard home routers). I have a linksys wrt54gs and have flashed it with a 3rd party bios (dd-wrt) which adds many more functionalities (VPN endpoint, real port forwarding control, etc). Its on the expensive side of routers but i find it good.
  5. TwoJ

    Good software for mirroring?

    I've done a fair bit in backups and verification due to corruption issues relating to motherboards and other components. I suppose it depends on how much data you are talking about, i used to do SHA-1 comparisons directly with a good program called FolderMatch, the problem is that once you hit like 50-100GB of data, doing a comparison over gigabit ethernet is still quite slow. Now that i have over 100GB (quite a bit over) I find that i will run a md5 checksum on the folder or drive, copy the checksum over and compare it to the data on the backup. Programs that i use are; FolderMatch (also FolderClone) Advanced Checksum Verifier Backup Magic (mirroring & Sync) Hope that helps
  6. TwoJ

    Sound card selection help.

    well if your speakers are not good, getting a better soundcard will not make a difference, your limiting factor is the speakers. If you are saying that you create music which then you burn to CD it depends if you are imputting the music through the sound card like through the mic or line in. You'll really have to give some more details about what you have and what you want
  7. TwoJ

    Sound card selection help.

    It really depends on what you want to use the card for I recently purchased a TerraTec Space card since i wanted to do recording with it, although there are better cards out there for stereo recording like @juli, however i also wanted to use it for 7.1 output, thats why i got the TerraTec, it has better ADC and DACs. If you are interested in gaming then stick with the soundblasters, personally if i did gaming i would get the cheapest x-fi card. They are better than the Audigy 2 but again it really depends on what you use it for. If all you are doing is listening to some mp3s through some little cheap computer speakers you might not hear any difference between the x-fi and audigy. the ball is in your court
  8. I would try another scsi cable, i have the 27160 - the n is for 32bit pci, the 27160 supports up to 64bit pci. The flat cable that originally comes with the card is next to useless - i guess maybe if you install it one time it might be ok, but any changes and it seems to fall apart. worse of all is that the terminator seems to be faulty - mine would sporatically fall to 40MBs sync and then next boot up it would sync at 160 (the default for atlas 18G). It got so bad that ultimately it would not recognize the drive. I replaced it with a LVD SCSI round cable and it fixed all the problems. SCSI cables are unfortunatly not cheap, so it helps if you know anyone who has one that you can try or maybe if a local shop could try it for you. Anyways that was my experience with that setup (I actually had the Quantum atlas 18G (v2 i think) and then got it replaced with a Maxtor Altas 18G (v3 i think) when i RMA the drive because i thought the drive was faulty). ANyways i hope this helps
  9. In yet another computer that i get to do a re-install, thanks to QuickTax idiotic bootsector change!, I wanted to pull off the passwords for the system. The WinXP home version i can't boot into, it loads the gui and then goes into shutdown, it does it even in safe mode. I guess i have 2 questions; 1) I know there seems to be a dozen boot recovery CDs out there like Bart's, ultimate windows.., Knoppix (linux) plus a dozen others. I would like to know which one in your opionon is better and why. also i know these don't usually include software which is copyrighted, but i have a legal version of a password recovery program that i would like to include on the CD, how would i be able to do this? 2) I've used a couple of the equivalent of the Windows XP transfer wizard program, but pretty much they all depend on running a program on the "old" machine. Now in this case the "old" HD is not bootable, but it is accessable when connected to another machine. Is there any program which can take the "old" profile, by directing it to the old HD C:\Documents & Settings\Profile and let it get all the information from there? Thanks
  10. I suppose technically maybe not, but since the OS is in a suspended state it isn't a cold plug either (from the OS point of view, not the hardware) I mean that the IDE interface and specs were not designed with the idea of hot-plugging, while SCSI (at least later versions) & sata were designed to accomidate hot-plugging. The fact that you can build hardware (controller cards) that will take an IDE and emulate a SCSI or SATA's hot-plugging does not alter the fact that they (IDE) do not support hot-plugging natively. As for uptime, which I think to any real consideration would not include any suspended state. I think if you want to play then go with your method, if you need something solid & reliable then get a USB2 pci card and a USB->IDE converter.
  11. I don't know, but i can tell you that IDE was never designed to be hot-swapped and that it is a good risk you take by doing it. good luck
  12. TwoJ

    building a performance PC

    No Don't use the word best and a video card what you can afford, and possibly a raptor HD depending on budget This all really depends on how much you want to spend, you can talk about $200-$500 upgrades or $2000-$5000 depending on what best is to you. Probably by that time you can upgrade other parts - maybe a whole new machine - decide at that time when you think the processor is the bottleneck. I would recommend an nvidia based card (ati is cutting their warrenties) and what you think is reasonable, personally i think a $200-$400 card is what you could consider. None you'll notice To finish the machine I would say buy your graphic card, perhaps more than a HD i would invest in a nice big display, that will set you back a good bit of $$$, after that a raptor, let us know if you still have money left after that good luck
  13. sounds silly why you can't turn off the machine but if that is the case then get yourself an IDE to USB2 adapter. IDE is not meant to be hotplugged (what you are attempting to do) be it is the machine is on or in standby, suspend, or hybernated. It may work but it is a gamble, i've tried a simialar thing and it ended up deleting the partition information and having to do days of data recovery.
  14. Try to put back your computer exactly as you had it before. Don't use hibernate mode while doing any maintenance, changes to the computer (always do a complete shutdown) Try resetting the cmos - look in your MB guide, it is usually a jumper on the MB in order to reset the CMOS
  15. TwoJ

    APC powerchute problem

    Yes the main computer is a workstation, however the UPS is perfect for the 2 and i don't want to change that. The Powerchute client is attached to the server since it is on all the time. What I want it to do is shut down the workstation (my computer) when it detects a power loss. PowerChute shuts down the server fine but the only way i can see to shutdown the workstation is in the settings is a shutdown sequence where it can run a command file before shutting down. This command file is what i'm trying to work on now - it appears that it does run the file, i've done some test and i can get it to run a command line shutdown on the server but because it runs in the SystemLocal account it doesn't have permission for network access. It also appears that i can't tun any command that initiates a window or any type of executable or other command file. I'm no expert on command files but I seem to be able to run some commands, i think this is close to the solution but i just need to find how to write a command file that i can run in this limited account. I've tried the runas types, ie running the application as an administrator but no sucess> I really appreciate any help from any command file experts :-)